Falling for the University City of Coimbra, Portugal

Disclosure: This post (probably) contains affiliate links. If you click on one, I may make a small commission. Of course, this will come at no extra cost to you and helps keep this site running.

There are few places in Portugal as steeped in living history as Coimbra. This city in central Portugal is a natural stopping point for those travelling across the country between Porto and Lisbon. And while it may not be as vast as either city, Coimbra packs a great deal of character into its smaller confines. Much of Coimbra’s story focuses on the city’s grand old university, although its history and location are also quite alluring.

It’s fair to say that the city isn’t yet a recognised highlight of Portugal, but it does see enough tourists that word of mouth is sure to spread. For travellers looking to get a better sense of Portugal and experience more of what the country has to offer, Coimbra is a smart choice. I know that when I visited during my first trip through Portugal, I fell for the city. My time in Coimbra made me realise just how much Portugal had going for it and eventually led to my second trip last year.

The History of Coimbra

There’s a lot to say about the history of Coimbra and its importance to Portugal as a whole. Like many places in Portugal and Spain, the city was occupied by the Romans and Moors, with a small degree of importance. Coimbra’s importance rose though with the reconquest from the Moors and the creation of the Kingdom of Portugal in 1139.

With close familial ties to the city, King Afonso Henriques made Coimbra the capital. Of course the city rose in prominence as a result and remained the capital for over 100 years. He wasn’t the last king to have a soft spot for Coimbra as I’ll explain later regarding the university.

Sights of Old Town

Chances are that if you’re visiting Coimbra, you’re going to be spending some time in the Old Town. Spreading from the bank of the Mondego river and up the hill to the University, the old town may not be huge but it’s certainly interesting. The main pedestrian street Rua Ferreira Borges is lined with elegant, but worn buildings and leads up to Praça 8 de Maio square.

Nearby are a whole slew of churches including the Igreja de Santa Cruz with its remarkable tiled interior. Behind the church you’ll find the old Manga Cloister, seen above with its pale yellow exterior. It’s worth mentioning that while you can explore the old town on your own, it’s also possible to enjoy it as part of a guided tour.

Moving away from the main pedestrian area, steep narrow streets bring you up the city’s hillside. These tight winding streets reveal the quieter, more modest side of the city. Along the way you’ll pass the Old Cathedral, a historic Romanesque building dating from the 12th century.

The Church built the Old Cathedral during Coimbra’s days as the capital of the newly created Kingdom of Portugal. This means it actually hosted the crowning of the second king of Portugal, Sancho I. You do find it a lot harder to underestimate Coimbra’s importance with facts like that. Perhaps the best view of the cathedral and its outer cloister is looking down from the tower of the university.

Coimbra University

It’s quite fitting that Coimbra University is both physically and historically at the centre of the city. Perched on top of the hill that Coimbra was built upon, you can’t explore the city or its history without visiting the university. Although it was founded in Lisbon, the university was moved by King Joao III to Coimbra in 1537. It took up residency in the former Coimbra Royal Palace and helped usher in the Renaissance to the city.

Although the modern university has a number of modern buildings on campus, it is the former palace that attracts most visitors. Upon passing through the Porta Férrea into the vast courtyard, the grand architecture of the palace is immediately apparent.

From the graceful arcade and stairs of the Via Latina, to the views out toward the city, even this outside area is bound to impress. A visit inside the palace shows off grand halls and scholarly classrooms, bound to have you imaging what it must have been like as a student back then.

While the tower views are beautiful, the true wonder of the University is the Joanina University Library. While you can sadly not take photos inside, take my word that it is one of the most exquisite libraries in existence and a true sight to behold. I’d go as far as to say that visiting the baroque library is worth a trip to Coimbra alone. To get the most from the experience, consider maybe going with a guided tour of the university.

Botanic Gardens

For those looking to escape the dense centre of the city, greener surrounds are just a short walk away. Adjacent to the faculty buildings of the university lies the Botanical Gardens of the University of Coimbra. With a worldly collection of plant life, the botanic gardens are immaculately groomed and an oasis of calm. Surely, having a peaceful place like this must be popular with students, offering an alternative to the library.

Dating back to 1772, this vast garden covers over 13 hectares and was instrumental in developing the university’s school for Botanical studies. At the end of the day, it’s also just a beautiful place to walk.

Immediately outside the botanical gardens, you’ll find the intact remains of the San Sebastian Aqueduct. Built over the remains of a roman aqueduct in the 16th century, the aqueduct once linked up the hilltop castle with a nearby monastery. Walking alongside it, you’ll be impressed with the state of the aqueduct, yet another preserved slice of the city’s history.

Mondego Riverfront

Besides its central hill, the other main feature of Coimbra’s landscape is the Mondego River. For much of its length, the Mondego is quite a small stream, but by the time it reaches Coimbra it makes a fair statement. Along the riverfront you’ll find many parks and green areas, giving the riverfront an open and inviting atmosphere.

Although much of the city sits on the eastern bank, there are a few sights to see across the Mondego river. At the far end of the Santa Clara bridge, you’ll find the remains of the Mosteiro de Santa Clara-a-Velha, a medieval monastery abandoned due to repeated floods. Up the hill and you’ll find its replacement, the Mosteiro de Santa Clara-a-Nova. This much larger monastery was built in the 17th century and is now considered a national monument.

Visiting Coimbra in Portugal

Coimbra really is a perfect stopping point for those travelling between Porto and Lisbon. Trains comfortably connect Coimbra with other cities and there are hourly connections for both Porto and Lisbon. Travel time is a little under 2 hours to Porto and a little over to Lisbon, with schedules available at the Comboios website. The city is also linked up with a number of intercity buses, with more information best found on my public transport guide.

Although not a large city, getting about on public transport is a little tricky because of the dense old town. That’s why it’s best to find a place to stay close to the old town centre to make sightseeing easier. Luckily, there’s a good range of options of places to stay in the area, across different budgets.

Have you come across Coimbra and its university before? Is it somewhere you’d include on your next Portugal itinerary? Please share your thoughts in the comments below.

This article is now available as a mobile app. Go to GPSmyCity to download the app for GPS-assisted travel directions to the attractions featured in this article.