The Vibrant, Revolutionary Spirit of Timisoara, Romania

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Still not fully appreciated by international tourists, Romania is a far bigger country than people realise. Visitors tend to focus on the gothic mystique of Transylvania and the nation’s capital Bucharest, but the country has plenty more to offer. Case in point is the revolutionary city of Timisoara, that has proudly remained defiant for centuries against invaders, conformity and dictators. That being said, it also happens to be an exceptionally striking city featuring grand and vibrant architecture that just begs to be shared.

As one of the largest cities in Romania, Timisoara is actually the de facto capital of Romania’s western reaches. This geography though leaves it detached from the increasingly popular tourist route that carves through Transylvania from Sibiu, to Brasov and down to Bucharest. In fact, the city is far closer to major cities in neighbouring Hungary and Serbia than it is to its Romanian kin. Still, visit and you’ll be glad that you made the detour because the city’s vibrancy and rebel nature just bursts out at you.

Revolutionary Spirit

With any talk regarding Timisoara, it’s crucial to mention its revolutionary role in bringing about the fall of communism in Romania. After decades under the socialist regime of Nicolae Ceaușescu, it was in Timisoara that the Romanian Revolution sparked in December of 1989. What started as a local protest on December 16th quickly spiralled out of control and led to the overthrow of the government just 6 days later.

It must say something about the people of Timisoara that they were not only able to declare the city free from socialism in a matter of days, but also inspire the rest of the country so profoundly. That’s quite a feat! All of this history can be personally absorbed at the Revolution Memorial Museum.

Secessionist Architecture

The city was not only revolutionary on the political front though, but also the architectural one as well, it could be said. Throughout Timisoara you’ll be treated to a particular style of art nouveau known as secessionist architecture after a Vienna art movement that spurned the established art world. Thanks to these many exquisite buildings in Timisoara, it’s fondly known as the “Little Vienna“.

Spurning the conservative nature of the art and architecture establishment found in Vienna, artists and architects went rogue, incorporating new elements and variations into their work. The secessionist movement coincided with a building boom in Timisoara it seems, although it’s no wonder that this spirited city opted to go in such a bold direction.

Orthodox Cathedral

If there’s a single icon of Timisoara then there’s no doubt that it is the Orthodox Metropolitan Cathedral. Standing proudly at the end of the boulevard-shaped plaza of Piata Victoriei, the cathedral’s vibrant design immediately draws your focus. While it may have only been finished in 1946, construction of the church had to be halted due to the outbreak of WWII.

Still, what it lacks in historical pedigree it more than makes up for in its vivid appearance. It’s design is what is known as neo-moldavian, an inspired mix of features from byzantine, ottoman and renaissance architectural styles. With its unusually vibrant colours and exaggerated dimensions, it almost looks like it would be more at home in Disneyland than in a Romanian city.

Piaţa Victoriei

Even though the cathedral is the Piata Victoriei’s most popular landmark, it’s certainly not the only. Looming high over the square’s lovely gardens and fountains, grand old buildings hint at the city’s architectural boom in the early 20th century. While buildings like the Dauerbach Palace may look a tad solemn with their dark colour palette, it contrasts nicely with the bright and colourful gardens below in the square.

Interestingly, Dauerbach Palace was a residence built for Georg Dauerbach, and is only referred to as a palace due to the famous Palace Restaurant that for decades was situated on its ground floor.

At the far end of the square you’ll find yet another design style on display in the city’s National Theatre And Opera House. Pre-dating many of Timisoara’s other grand buildings, the theatre was built in the 1870s, which could explain its different look. Originally given a renaissance design, the old architecture was hidden behind a new neo-byzantine facade added after a fire in 1920. Yet another eclectic, rule-defying landmark of Timisoara.

Piata Unirii

Even compared to Piata Victoriei, for those looking to be dazzled by Timisoara’s architecture then there’s no better place to be than Piata Unirii. Right in the city centre, this large square is surrounded by the city’s most remarkable buildings, from palatial homes to churches. It appears that in recent years the square’s potential was recognised, ushering in a wave of restoration work that has transformed Piata Unirii into an unmissable pocket of Timisoara.

Of the city’s many, many art nouveau secessionist buildings, the colourful and most visually striking must be the palatial residence, Brück House. This 1910 building was only recently restored with its defined details, clearly giving the house a new lease on life.

Also lighting up the square is the Serbian Orthodox Episcopal Palace with its pale colours and graceful architecture. The palace originally had a simple Byzantine style when first built in 1745. Later additions clearly elevated its design with laudable attention to detail. These are just two of the picturesque buildings found around Piata Unirii, but going from one to the next here would simply take too long.

Old Town Fortifications

Look at a Timisoara map and its hard to miss the rings of roads emanating from the circular old town. It’s no surprise then that the city was once protected by city walls and sadly only fragments still remain. On the eastern fringe of the city centre you’ll find the Maria Theresia Bastion.

Open to the public, these immense walls give you some sense of how well Timisoara must have been defended during the Middle Ages. Quite necessary when the Ottomans kept trying to invade the city for centuries before finally seizing it. Perhaps it was this legacy of being under siege that fueled defiant, rebellious streak. Further round, you’ll also find the city’s old castle, Castelul Huniade. Although a little worn around the edges, this 14th century castle now hosts the museum of Banat.

Nativity Church

Although there are other attractions throughout the city centre, one worth venturing beyond for is the striking Nativity Church. When the sunlight catches the gilded art on its facade, its hard not to believe in some divine inspiration for this beautiful building. Modelled on the style of a monastery, the Biserica Nașterea Maicii Domnului was built in the 1930s for the local parish. Walking past for the first time, I saw a wedding setting up in front for photos of the bridal party. No doubt as to why!

Visiting Timisoara

Although the city lies quite some distance from other popular Romanian destinations, it’s still quite manageable to visit the city. Coming from other major cities in Romania, it’s going to take either an all day bus journey or overnight train trip to get there. Crossing in from neighbours Serbia and Hungary might actually be easier. The city’s saving grace though is its airport that often has low-cost carriers for domestic and international routes.

With regards to accommodation, Timisoara has a huge range of hotels and apartments to choose from when you stay. My choice was frankly too far from the centre so I won’t bother sharing it.

The city is connected with trams and buses mind you, but I didn’t manage to work the system out. If you stay south of the centre, I would recommend the restaurant Casa del Sole. It offered local cuisine, was reasonably priced and had a nice outdoor seating area in its internal courtyard.

Which aspect and attractions of Timisoara most appeal to you? Would you look to add this revolutionary city to your next Romanian itinerary? Please share your thoughts in the comments below.

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