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In many ways Matsumoto is a classic in-between Japanese destination. It’s certainly not among the most popular places to go in Japan, but thanks to its original castle, you will see its name pop up here and there. During my trip to Japan I knew I wanted to visit Matsumoto, both because I knew how special its castle is and because it fit perfectly on my route through the Chubu region.
Matsumoto is found in the Nagano prefecture and is probably the second most important city there after Nagano itself. International travellers frequently pass through Matsumoto when travelling through Chubu, thanks to its convenient location near regional highlights like Kamikochi and the Kiso Valley.
But only a fraction take time to briefly stop for a quick look. Maybe that’s because they don’t realise that Matsumoto Castle is just the start of things to do in Matsumoto. Allow a little time in Matsumoto and you’ll discover that it’s a really curious place. Yes, it’s light on the traditional elements you find somewhere like Kyoto or Takayama. But its variety of scenery, history, and culture kept me happily busy during my trip.
Matsumoto Castle
There’s no question that Matsumoto Castle is the main sightseeing attraction when you visit Matsumoto. After all, it’s one of the rare castles in Japan that has actually been preserved in its original form. Many castles in Japan today are simply reconstructions, as many castles were either destroyed due to war, fires, or because of reformations during the Meiji Period.
Looking at the castle from across its moat, it’s hard to believe that it has been preserved from the late 1500s/early 1600s, given how in good condition it is. Matsumoto Castle sits in rare company with the likes of Himeji Castle, which I also got to see on this trip.
Visiting the castle you’ll soon learn about other aspects of its design and history that make it so interesting. For instance, its distinctive black exterior earned it the nickname “Crow Castle” and Matsumoto Castle is unusual for having two keeps or donjons.
Unlike some other castles in Japan, the grounds around the castle are relatively restrained. On them, you’ll mostly see outlines of former structures and residences. The main appeal is the tour inside the main keep, where you get to climb through its six floors. At the top floor you find the watchtower, featuring great views of the surrounding area.
In terms of museum exhibits, they’re mostly contained to the armoury on the 2nd floor. That said, there are information boards peppered throughout that speak to design elements of the castle, from holes for shooting arrows to the ornaments of mythical creatures that sat on the tower’s roof. Outside of the main keep you’ll find more information about the castle over by the Taikomon gate.
The Hazy Mountain Backdrop
Nagano is known for its mountains and they’re clearly on display when you visit Matsumoto. You can see them from street level, but viewpoints like at the castle and Shiroyama Park make it easier. What’s a shame is the haze that seems to cling to Matsumoto, as it causes that backdrop to fade. This was in spring, I imagine the scenery in winter is a sight to behold.
Matsumoto City Museum of Art
Even though Matsumoto is an important regional hub, it doesn’t have too many big cultural institutions. What it does have though is the Matsumoto City Museum of Art, a museum that you’ll definitely remember. How often do you see huge polka dot plant sculptures outside a museum’s entrance?
The focus for the Matsumoto City Museum of Art is regional art, but the heart of its collection is the Yayoi Kusama exhibition. Kusama was born in Matsumoto and then moved to the US, with this exhibition showcasing some of her pieces and highlighting why she’s a leading figure in the contemporary art movement.
The pumpkin seen below is a classic example of her style and the sculpture is one of her best known pieces. It’s also the only one you’re allowed to photograph unfortunately. Her Infinity Mirror Room is another highlight, offering an overwhelming illusionary experience that you may have seen on social media. Do not miss this art museum during your Matsumoto visit.
Shiroyama Park
One attraction in Matsumoto that I don’t think gets enough attention is Shiroyama Park. Sometimes also called Joyama Park, this hilltop park northwest of the city centre has a really impressive viewpoint.
It’s worth mentioning that Shiroyama Park is quite removed from the main tourist area. To get there you can take the bus or walk out from the city centre, but both options will include the up hill walk through the nearby residential area.
The park itself is quite pretty, especially in spring with its trees in bloom, and you’ll also find a shrine there. But it’s the park’s observation tower that I’d say is the real draw for tourists. Climb on up and you’re treated to phenomenal views.
You can see all of Matsumoto’s city, including Matsumoto Castle, and how it fits within the landscape. On top of that, you get views away from the city along the Narai River and towards the mountains. It was also cool seeing birds of prey fly loops over head, clearly on the hunt for nearby critters.
Local Shopping Streets
For the traditional side to Matsumoto beyond its castle, you’ll want to head to the city’s two shopping streets. That’s because these two streets are lined by historic buildings or kiosks that reflect a more old-fashioned way of life.
The two streets, Nakamachi Shopping Street and Nawate Shopping Street, couldn’t be more different. Nakamachi Shopping Street is the all-white street seen above, with restaurants and boutiques make use of its historic buildings.
As for Nawate Shopping Street, it features a row of traditional kiosks along the Metoba river. It was there I stopped for a taiyaki ice cream sandwich – an ice cream sandwich using the fish-shaped wafer known as taiyaki that are a common Japanese street food.
The City’s Manhole Covers
While exploring Matsumoto, I highly recommend looking down as you go about your sightseeing. I say this because the city has taken to painting many of its manhole covers and its such a cute touch. The painted manhole covers all feature the pattern seen above, but I saw they come in different colours. It’s a small thing, but I often think that small touches like this really help build a destination’s personality.
Great Local Coffeeshops
Often in Japanese cities the coffee scene is dominated by chains, both international and domestic. But it felt noticeably different in Matsumoto, with a lot more independent coffee shops and cafes about. During my time in the city, I found two places I quite enjoyed and for different reasons.
For exceptional coffee, Cafe Larch absolutely nailed it. You chose the beans you want and the coffee comes with a tasting notes card. I was on an iced coffee spree at this stage and it was some of the best coffee I had in Japan.
In terms of atmosphere, you have to experience Jun Kissa Abe. The coffee may be standard fare, but this cafe has a very quirky aesthetic. It almost gave me the feel of a lodge in the woods of Germany or something, with such a unusual mix of knickknacks and artwork. Sitting down here really felt like a central European coffeehouse, just with an over-the-top decor.
Travel Tips for Visiting Matsumoto
You should have a firm grasp now on what to see and do in Matsumoto. I will say though that two attractions that I missed were the Matsumoto Timepiece Museum and the Matsumoto City Alps Park. Keep those in mind in case they interest you.
The rest of my advice for visiting Matsumoto relates to getting there and where to stay in the city. Since it’s easier, let’s look at finding accommodation in Matsumoto first.
There are lots of hotels in the city centre, mostly around the train station area. This makes sense given how useful Matsumoto is as a transit hub, and its where I’d recommend you look. My stay at the Hotel Buena Vista was a nice treat for me as it was a chance to stay in a 4-star hotel. Accommodation in Matsumoto is cheaper than more popular Japanese cities, making this an appealing option.
As for how to get to Matsumoto, you have good options for both bus and train. I took the bus there from Takayama, but there are even direct buses from Tokyo if you want to head straight there. Train connections with Matsumoto follow the Nagano to Nagoya route that also passes through the Kiso Valley.
You can use your JR Pass or the Alpine-Takayama-Matsumoto Area Tourist Pass that covers the region for almost everything mentioned here, including the Takayama bus. The one exception is the trains to Nagano when travelling on that regional pass.
Do these things to do in Matsumoto make you interested in visiting the city during a trip to Japan? Have you had the chance to visit Matsumoto, and if so, what did you do there? Please share your thoughts in the comments below.
