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Even growing up in Melbourne, there are stretches of coast near the city that I’ve never been. One area full of gaps for me was the Mornington Peninsula, as proven when I saw a friend’s photos of the Two Bays Walking Track at Cape Schanck and Bushrangers Bay. Neither spot was recognizable to me, and yet there they were on the map, a short drive from places like Rye and Sorrento that I was more familiar with.
After sitting on the idea of visiting Cape Schanck for a while, I eventually decided to go after my encouraging hike in the Grampians. On a free day right at the start of summer, I drove drive down to this scenic coastal walk just outside Melbourne.
What followed was a fun day of nature walking that was both within easy reach of Melbourne, while also feeling far far away. I’ll definitely be planning to explore the area more in future, but until then, here’s what its like walking from Cape Schanck to Bushrangers Bay on the Two Bays Walking Track.
The Two Bays Walking Track
Both to set expectations and explain the setting a little, here’s a rundown on the Two Bays Walking Track and how much of it I actually walked. Because in this case, we’re only talking about one specific section of the track (or trail).
The full hike along the Two Bays Walking Track covers 26km from Arthurs Seat through the interior of the peninsula down to Cape Schanck. This walk though is the just the end section of the full track, covering the final 2.5km between Cape Schanck and Bushrangers Bay. Allow between 1.5 to 2 hours for this 5km-return hike, although it will be longer if you stick around to explore Bushrangers Bay.
Not only is this probably one of the easier parts of the track to do as a casual nature walk, it’s the only part of the trail that follows the coast. One day I would like to try to do the full hike from Arthurs Seat to Cape Schanck, but the logistics of getting back to the start would require some planning.
It’s worth mentioning that there are lots of different walking trails along the coast in this part of the Mornington Peninsula. The Coastal Walk is another long hike in the area, following the 30km stretch of coast from Cape Schanck to Portsea.
Cape Schanck Lighthouse
Upon reaching Cape Schanck, it’s tempting to bound off on the trail and get your walk underway. But it’s worth spending a short while looking around before you get going. The trailhead lies right near Cape Schanck Lighthouse and a selection of historic building from its establishment in 1859.
Just above the clearing by the lighthouse is Signal Tower Hill, a spot with both history and great views. The signal tower here was vital for telegraph communications between Victoria and Tasmania, resolving a decade of communication issues between the two.
Cape Schanck Circuit Track
After looking around the lighthouse and Signal Tower Hill, it’s worth doing a lap of the Cape Schanck Circuit Track. Doing the small circuit shouldn’t take more than 10 minutes with stops at the different lookouts, but it’s worth doing for the great seaside views.
But there is too the option of walking out along a boardwalk to Pebble Beach at the end of the peninsula. I decided against walking down to the beach because I wasn’t sure what to expect from the day’s walks. In hindsight, adding an extra 15-20 minutes of walking to see the beach wouldn’t have killed me. Oh well, next time I suppose.
Walking to Bushrangers Bay
Despite being quite an impressive walk and major activity at Cape Schanck, it’s surprising how unceremonious the start of the Two Bays Walking Track is. Follow an open grass trail out of the car park and you’ll spy a sign marking the trailhead for the track.
Early on the trail is quite open and close to the cliffs edge, with breaks in the vegetation providing good views of the coastline. But soon trees and undergrowth sprout up, blocking your view of the water and the sandy trail veers a little inland. As you continue, your surroundings alternate between natural tunnels through the trees and fence line on the edge of the neighbouring farmland.
While the lack of ocean views can be disappointing, there are upsides to the trail. For one, you’re sheltered from the elements by the trees, which is welcome even in early summer. The surrounding trees mean that you mostly just hear the wind accompanied by the sound of waves and local crows, rather than feel it.
For much of the early walk the trail is relatively flat and easy going. That is until you hit the long staircase near Burabong Creek Lookout (with its stunning pastoral/bush scenery) leading you down to the creek and up the other side. Even though this area isn’t particularly bad compared to some hikes, I still felt it on the way back up.
Sightseeing at Bushrangers Bay
You’ll know you’re nearing Bushrangers Bay when you reach your second staircase leading downward. Follow the stairs down and they’ll bring you out onto its beach, rewarding you with the bay’s picturesque scenery. As nice as the nature and bush scenery is along the trail, this is the coastal setting you came here for and it’s worth the walk.
As nice as the sand beach of Bushrangers Bay is, it’s hard not to get distracted by the many rock pools dotting the shore. While I was content with the exploring the close ones on the right when facing the water, there’s apparently many more if you cross the shallow creek flowing out into the beach. Plus, there’s also the details in the nearby eroding cliffs to admire, leaving you with plenty to look at while visiting.
Bonus Stop – Fingal Beach
If after returning to Cape Schanck Lighthouse you’re still in the mood for more walking and sightseeing, you don’t need to look far. Just to the north is Fingal Beach, an area with more walking trails and panoramic viewpoints.
Fingal Beach is one of the stops on The Coastal Walk rather than the Two Bays Walking Track. As such, you can walk here from Cape Schanck, but I just drove to the Fingal Picnic Area to save time.
You have your choice of walking trails from the picnic area to choose from, but I went with the most obvious one out to Fingal Beach Lookout at the southern end of the area. The walks here make a nice change of pace from Cape Schanck/Bushrangers Bay as Fingal Beach is more of a forest setting and the views you get are a straight shot up the coast towards Portsea.
Tips for Visiting Cape Schanck from Melbourne
If you’re interest in doing this walk for yourself is piqued, let’s look at how you can go about it. My approach was simply to drive to Cape Schanck from my home in Melbourne. For me, it took just over an hour, but if you’re coming from the city centre, it will take roughly 75 minutes depending on traffic.
But that’s not the only way you can visit. The Mornington Peninsula is home to all sorts of things to do, from offering many more beaches, to hot springs, golf courses, and even a historical attraction or too like Fort Nepean.
So you could choose to stay in the area, and spend just one of your days doing this walk. Your closest choice is the RACV Cape Schanck Resort, but there are countless accommodation options a short drive away from Rosebud to Sorrento. It really comes down to what you’re looking for, because with the Mornington Peninsula I’m pretty confident you’ll find it.
Have you walked the Two Bays Walking Track from Cape Schanck to Bushrangers Bay or even farther? Where’s you favourite place to visit on the Mornington Peninsula? Please share your thoughts in the comments below.
